I belive you are right, it comes with the exercise. I will get myself a good pair of tyre levers, and the required patches, but together with the emergency sealer spray, in case I am forced by the conditions, I will use the sealer.
But I don't give up. I will keep looking for the tubeless conversion kit.
I will let you know the results of my investigations :twisted:
Hi Trischer, It's been a while since we discussed last time 
Yes, the difficulty comes from carrying along the tyre levers, pump or pressurised cartouches, cold patches, and spare tubes. Besides, my bike came with an installed slip-prevention shoe, for running with a low pressure or no pressure wheel. I find them useful, even if never got the chance to use them, yet :lol:
My Mitas E09 are quite hard on the sidewall, and the guys in the tyre shop have quite a struggle to take them off and back on. I imagine myself on a rocky top all alone playing hard with the wheels to see them naked, and it's not nice at all. Never happened and never wish to.
The discution comes at the brainstorming for a trip to the Black Sea and back, as soon as the first warm days are getting here. The trip includes tarmac roads, and rocky plain trails, through the villages of the Delta of the Danube, where it's very possible to get a nail, piece of wire, or a woodscrew into a tyre.
I have seen on a bikeshop here a spray that can "fix" a flat tyre, even in the tube-type wheels, by injecting a self-curing foam into the tube, and when the foam fets into a low pressure environment gets hard and covers the hole... I plan to have one like that with me, but my deepest desire was to convert the wheels into tubeless, and in this case ease the flat service job. Who woldn't ?
Hi,
I have heard about some kits that convert spokes rims for tubeless applications.
Have anyone of you used this? Is there a reliable supplier where to buy this? It has enough strength to be used in hard enduro applications? What tubeless tyres are available in an aggressive pattern to replace tube type tyres, like the E09 we are using, and to match the sizes we have on our XT 350s.
I got two flats during the last two rides and managed to reach the garage in time with air in the tubes, but if I was a little bit further the result would be a little different.
Tubeless tyres are easily repaired without removing the tyre from the rim, and requires very small toolkit to carry on for the job.
Let's see if we can get rid of the tubes for good.
I cutted the rear end of the original silencer due to a misposiotioning of the exhaust end pipe ( previous owner must have had something to do with it/)
Before trying to weld it back in the right position, I gave t a try and I fell in love immediately with the sound. As the TUV checks are rare in romania and I ride mostly on the hills and forrest it will be like this till the day it dies.
It seems to be altered somehow the mixture because it begins to start more heavily in the cold situation, but I am not shure about the carburetors status.
Hi,
I have a friend that is interested to purchase it, I shall send him your thread, and maybe he will require some more photos by mail.
Keep up,
Adrian
Thanks to Andreas, I know how to replace the front fork oil sealers, so I will dismantle some of the front wind protection.This will let me see the wires, and their connections. i shall apply some WD40 on all the connections, and hopefully the problem should be solved.
I have the electrical plan, I shall check al the connections to be firm and according to the diagram.
Thanks !
Hi there,
I am a Romania, so please excuse the English, but I have no clue of German, and the google/altavista translation sucks.
I have bought in december a 92 XT 350, and runs very nice and in a very good shape.
I have changed some spares, including the baterry which was not producing any current at all (maybe an interrupted ellement) and the turn lights were not working. As soon as i have replaced the battery with a new one, everything was just fine, until I have checked the front light in a darker day.
At idle, the light is pale, and has a substantial pulsatory aspect. The same thing is visible on the dash lights, both illumination on the dials, and the turn/long beam/neutral martors. I suspect the rectifier/regulator to be the damaged part, maybe because the bike has been run without the battery in order. Even if the problem disappears at higher revs, I would like to replace the problem part, unless is too expensive, because I can live with this.
If some of you think it can cause some other problems, please let me know.
Best regards,
Adrian
