Beiträge von bwatson

On advice from my local Yamaha dealer ( ) I used a large flat screwdriver to push the bucket down and was able to use a pair of tweezers to remove the shim. I needed two hands to push down, but once it was down I could hold it with one hand leaving the other free to operate the tweezers. Easy!

BUT, I am not suggesting that you (anyone) do this - there is risk that if the screwdriver slips while under pressure it could cause serious damage to the head. I decided that $AU167 was worth the risk. You must decide for yourself...

Thanks,

Brian

Zitat von Don Pedro

Hi,
the special tool you need isn't very expensive.
( Ventilaushebe - Werkzeug , Yamaha)
You may get one in Germany from http://www.louis.de
The price is about 10.- Euros.
Removing the camshaft isn't good. You can easily damage the screws and then you have a big problem.

Ciao,
Peter

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Sorry to dig up such an old thread, but I came here looking for help after going to my Yamaha shop today to buy one of these and being told it would cost $AU167 !!

I wish I had the equipment and skill to make one like Baffo: http://westerbaen.tweakdsl.nl/klepsteltool/index.htm

Arghhh

Brian

I own an Australian TT350. I may have the chance to get a rear shock absorber from a 2000 TTR600. This is a nice looking Öhlins unit with lots of preload adjustment and both compression and rebound damping adjustment. I can see from photos that they are quite (OK, very) different to the TT shock, they sit much lower in the bike and the bottom mount is totally different.

I read jester's posts about fitting a shock and swingarm from a TT600 to and XT350 - well, I think that's what he said. Google translate is a bit rough

Has anyone done any research into the possibility of fitting a 2000 TTR600 shock?

Thanks,

Brian

I only ride on motocross tracks and bush so I like lots of noise. I can give that race IDS2 a nice home if you want

Brian

Well, that was not too hard - I now have my forks set just right. I drained the 15wt oil, pulled them apart, cleaned everything and put back together. I then put in 500ml of 10wt oil and 100ml of 15wt. I pumped up and down a few times to ensure it was well mixed and then used a syringe to suck out the excess (about 35ml) oil to take the level to 110mm. I spent most of the weekend on the bike and the seals did not leak and the feel it great!

Now I need to work on the rear shock. I have the spring preload as tight as it will go and I experimented with the damping through the weekend. I think my shock might be broken as the damping adjuster does not click very well when it is turned and it seems that at one position it is very soft and bottoms on small jumps and on the next position it is way too hard. The manual says there are about 35 positions so I would not expect to find such a difference with just one click! Has anyone had experience similar to this with the rear shock on a 1990 TT?

Brian

Zitat von Don Pedro

In Australia , the TT 350 was sold till 2000. Since 1996 the frame was coloured in blue.
Can you find out, how the modeltype is called ? (picture)

I was in my local Yamaha shop today and asked. He had a look around and said that the newest fiche he had was for 1993 and the model code was 4DR - same as your 1992 model. The Yamaha manual download site only has them up to 1993 as well so no hints there.

Brian

Zitat von Baffo

http://www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au/?r=0

Thanks - just what I was after. The link is there on the Yamaha Australia home page under "Support -> View Owners Handbook". I just could not see it...

I was also able to get a manual for my son's YZ80H from here, which is a very good manual. I now know where to look for the timing marks on the magneto and set it correctly rather than by guess

Zitat von Baffo

Suspension tuning:
http://www.ohlins.com/pdf/ultimate_tuning_bike.pdf
http://www.ohlins.com/pdf/mx-enduro-…k_absorbers.pdf
http://www.ohlins.com/pdf/mx-enduro_front_fork.pdf

Although this was mainly Ohlins specific, there was some general theory. I already know and understand the theory presented there. I think maybe it is not that difficult and I just need to go and implement the theory rather than just thinking about it!

Thanks,

Brian

Sorry, I was not clear. I already have the Clymer manual. I was asking for pointers to suspension tuning articles or books.

I took my bike out again today. About 35 degrees C and lots of dust - urgh.

Anyway, I spent a bit of time playing with the suspension. I used up the last few mm of rear spring preload and turned the damping up quite a bit. I can't say how much as the clicker does not click - I think it is about 7 clicks from hardest, which is softer than standard according to Clymer! I think it was set very soft when I bought it. It now feels OK. I does not bottom out on jumps (although I might not have been riding as hard today), holds OK through whoops and is not too jarring. I ran out of time, but I think I might try a little softer on the damping next time. The rear is close.

The front is a differnt matter. Still leaking badly! This week I am going to pull the front forks apart again. Install new oil seals and dust seals and 12.5wt oil (I have a litre of 15wt and I'll buy a litre of 10wt and mix them). I am also going to try 10mm more oil/less air.

From the bit of reading I have done (Google search for suspension tuning articles) I think the springs are close to the right strength for me, from checking the sag. But, they are a little harsh (15 wt oil too heavy as suggested here) and do bottom out (too much air space).

I don't get to ride often, but I will report back after my next test - should be the weekend of the 11th of March.

Thanks,

Brian

Zitat von trischter

You shurely know that this meant the air-chamber left in the fork without springs when the tubes are pushed completely into another.
Leaving less than these 125mm won´t change the damping overall but increases damping on the last third of compression and tendencially avoids grounding the bike after jumps.
I´d try a level around 100mm and think that will do with your weight.

No I did not know that. I have a fair bit of experience with motorbikes, but it is all self-taught and mainly engine. I know next to nothing about suspension tuning.

I was actually think of going the other way - "less" above meaning less oil = more air. Although my plan was to first check if 533ml of oil = 125mm of air, just to sanity check the manual specifications. What you are saying about more oil = better "end of stroke" damping makes sense as well.

It sounds like I should do some more reading. I have tried to search for suspension tuning articles on the net but have only been able to find people wanting to sell their services. Any pointers? I might even consider buying a book if there is consensus (I won't hold my breath for that here...) on a good one.

Thanks,

Brian

Zitat von Don Pedro

Hi Brian,

an owners manaul you can get from :

http://www.yamaha-motor.com.au (download/ pdf)

Gruß,
Peter

Are you sure - I just checked and they don't seem to have the TT350 manual listed (any more?). Do you have a copy you can send me?

Thanks,

Brian

Zitat von Baffo

On XT500's they sometimes use XT500 valvesprings on top of the normal fork springs to make this poor mans progressive springs, since the diameter of the forks are identical (o no wait you have a TT, you'll have to check that) you could go with that

I friend at home has also suggested that and I am going to try it as soon as I find some suitable springs. Another friend works in an engineering shop and assures me that he will be able to get me some.

Zitat von Baffo

Where did you get 533ml quantity from, because I think it is too much and therefor your seals will leak
Take out the springs, push the outer tube all the way up and leave 140-160mm of air in it, you can suck the oil out from the top like so:
http://westerbaen.tweakdsl.nl/XTZ750/800/imgp0294.jpg
http://westerbaen.tweakdsl.nl/XTZ750/800/imgp0296.jpg
http://www.wilbers-products.net/shop/gabelf_yamaha.htm says 160mm air for a 1TJ

I first got 533ml from "some guy" on Usenet - I asked for the specs when I first bought the bike and didn't have a manual. I now have a Clymer manual and it says 533ml as well. "some guy" probably got it from a Clymer manual

Interestingly though, the manual suggests a level of 125mm. I think I might try a bit less.

Zitat von Baffo

Linkage free play is normal if there is no grease in them (!) Grease them up, make sure all seals are in place and in good order then you will have (almost) no free play. You can even install grease nippels yourself if there aren't any, and regularly grease them up (not too much, or you will push out the seals)

Mine has grease nipples and I just happened to grease it this week. It feels much better!

Thanks,

Brian

hmm, back to Google translate to read my "own" thread

Zitat von trischter

:wink: :roll:
Hey, what time is it down there?
Years ago, I ordered a video-tape ("One mMan´s Dream";- about John Britten and his bikes) from a shop in New Zealand and had to stay up til midnight to phone there...

Right now... 10:28AM

Zitat von trischter

In Literary, irony and sarcasm ...

Ah, but I don't have skills in either of these ...

Zitat von trischter

Sorry, mate, thats how it is: you can´t get the piece of rubber from Yamaha, you can´t get a complete repair-kit from Yamaha, you can only get the complete petcock from Yamaha.

I had hoped that the and :cry: in my post would have been enough to make you understand that I understand all this - I am just being stubborn...

Thanks,

Brian

Zitat von trischter

my words since days...;-)

But, they were not nice words I want someone to give me the part number for just the rubber gasket :cry: There is something wrong with my brain that will not let me buy a whole petcock when the only problem is the little rubber that can easily be replaced - if it existed.

Thanks,

Brian

Well, I think I have solved one mystery. I found on the weekend that my rear shock absorber is missing the bump-stop rubber! I guess the prvious owner must have taken it over lots of big jumps and destroyed it. I can't see how it could be possible to replace this so I guess I will just live with it.

Brian

Zitat von Don Pedro

But first , the picture of the "Beck's Yamaha TT 350"
(also in gallerie, TT - pics, page 4)

Ah, yes - I did see that one in the gallery, but did not recognise it from this photo. That exhaust would not last long on my bike But I still love the look of those big bore headers!

Brian

Zitat von Don Pedro

Attention !

Deutsch - Lektion für Brian :roll:

http://www.xt350.de/viewtopic.php?…ht=%D6lk%FChler

My 12 year old son is learning German at school - I will have to get him in to translate for me

I have already read that thread using Google translate. I don't think an oil cooler mounted in that position would survive on my bike - it would get clogged with mud and I also doubt it would clear my fender. Looking at the header pipes (which look VERY nice to me!!) I am guessing that is some sort of motard bike? I'd like to see pictures of the whole bike - I don't think it is in the gallery here?

Thanks,

Brian

Zitat von trischter

Hi and welcome here!
Click on "Links" on the left side menu and on the opening page the link under "Technisches".
It´s the yamaha-homepage with all the fiches of all types of bikes. there you can search for the right part you´re in need of, grab the parts-number an order it at your yamaha dealer.

Good suggestion, but I have already tried that. I spent maybe half an hour and looked at quite a few different models. They all seemed to have the same petcock as the fiche says my bike has. I have also check web site for a few OEM parts suppliers, but they all seem to have "stolen" the Yamaha fiche.

I was hoping to get some suggestions from people that think they have the petcock I described on something other than a XT/TT350 (happy to take a photo if it will help) so I can check the fiche for their bike.

Thanks,

Brian