Top-end revision

Some pictures:
http://www.westerbaen.cistron.nl/xt350/rev/revision.html

So that's where the oil went(!)
Nothing to see about the valves though (was hoping to see something like this http://fotoboek.luiemotorfiets.net/foto/3174 ), must have a professional take a look at it.

Sounds great, but where do you get all of these? (URL's?)
Especially the oilpump sprocket is interesting. Rottguss seems to be a slang word (translated it says: rot casting, but I think you mean red brass?)
Why do I want a C sparkplug?
A Wiseco or JE piston is going in there, smallest one

While a TT350 has bigger inlet valves so even less distance between plug and seats. But I will have a look at it, tnx.
If anyone has URL's for the things to buy, that will be a great help.

-edit-
right inlet valve has lot of oil residue, so the valve seal was leaky, also it did not move smoothly in the valveguide, but does not look warped. But very likely that this valve would stay open a lot of the times. (had to hammer it out)

Brought cilinder and cilinderhead to the shop yesterday that will check and replace, valves, valeguides, valveseats, helicoils exhaust and boring/honing the cilinder.
Today received the Wiseco, now wait for the dichtungsatz so they can go to work.

It is becoming a complete overhaul

updated:

http://www.westerbaen.cistron.nl/xt350/rev/revision.html

Small-end question: Who knows what the (radial) clearence between piston pin and small-end of an XT 350 (55V) should be?
TT or other models also welcome (250, 500, 550, 600 etc)

TT yamaha service manual states:
Check free play
Free play -> inspect connecting rod for wear.
Wear -> Replace connecting rod and piston pin

Clymer states:
Small End Free Play -limit- 0.8mm

Garage says 0.6mm play exists now and 0.4mm is a common limit for small-end piston pin clearence (or did he say hundreds and not tenths...)

Clymer XT/TT600 states even that -standard- play is 0.8mm ...
But I think that that is side play/movement.

BMW 1100 specs:
small-end-Ø mm 22,015...22,025
Radial play mm 0,015...0,030
limit mm 0,06

Yeah, you're right, I know I have to change the connecting rod. But because shifting was a bit difficult also I'm looking for those pieces secondhand now.

I've discussed that, but first of all the outside of the small-end is too smal to do it properly, and this conrod is already 15 years old, so brandnew original is good enough.
Lastly, I've seen broken conrods after a bush was installed, because of wrong milling (angle?)

Zitat von nachtigall

Welcome to the club!
New oilpump with custommade steel sprocket

2 days ago I opened up a TT350 1TJ engine, and it had steel oilpump sprockets, I had only one thought when I saw those: "Mine !"

You are right !
oilpump 14 theeth on both of them
but pump idle gear is XT:20 and TT:21
clutch gear is XT:17 and TT:16
Cluth drive XT:72 and TT:70
and thus also all the other sprockets (crank, etc)... :cry:

Just picked up my stuff at the shop :
.

.

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1 kick starter !
The bike/engine overhaul has been completed and am now 'breaking' it in. I was astonished that it ran with one kick only, although I had taken it apart completely (3 kicks would have been nice)
Rode 100km today, with a 15 minute break every hour, tommorow I'll ride an 180km route, a bit boring 70km/h@4000rpm but it'll be all worth it :lol:

Well, carb settings should be improved but cannot put it on a dyno right now. Anyways, will buy a IDS2 soon and then go on the dyno twice, 1 time with the 17 inches for top-end power and 1 time with the TKC's for torque. With the supertrapp I can easily make the changes then.

And here are breaking-in ride pictures:

http://westerbaen.tweakdsl.nl/xt350/inrijden1.jpg
http://westerbaen.tweakdsl.nl/xt350/inrijden2.jpg
http://westerbaen.tweakdsl.nl/xt350/inrijden3.jpg

After the 3rd (tomorrow) I can go up to 5000rpm, after a fourth up to 6000rpm and then oil change, valve clearance check again, and retighten the cilinder/head and can really start using the bike again